10 Day Dishcloth Countdown! Day 6 ~ Twists Knitted Dishcloth

Another of the free patterns on the back of the Sugar & Cream yarn is for the Twists dishcloth pattern. It gives a nice patterned weave look and is an easy project.



MEASUREMENTS
Approx 10 ins [25.5 cm] square.

MATERIALS
Lily Sugar’n Cream Twists (56.7 g/2 oz)
1 ball of #20117 (Denim Twists).

Size 5 mm (U.S. 8) knitting needles or size needed to obtain gauge.

GAUGE: 19 sts and 25 rows = 4 ins [10 cm] in stocking st.

INSTRUCTIONS
Cast on 49 sts.
**1st row: (WS). Knit.
2nd row: K1. *K1 in next stitch in row below. K1. Rep from * to end of row.
3rd row: As 1st row.
4th row: K2. *K1 in next stitch in row below. K1. Rep from * to last st. K1.

Rep from ** until work from beg measures 10 ins [25.5 cm], ending with 1st or 3rd row of pat. Cast off knitwise.

10 Day Dishcloth Countdown! Day 5 ~ Doily Style Dishcloth

Here is another of Lily's free dishcloth patterns designed for their Sugar & Cream cotton yarn line. This one forms a pretty pattern and can be knit on double point needles or two circulars.

MATERIALS: Lily Sugar’n Cream (Solids 2.5 oz/70.9 g/Ombres 2 oz/56.7 g) White.

1 set of four double-pointed needles 4.50 mm (U.S. 7)or you can use two circulars

INSTRUCTIONS
Cast on 8 sts. Divide these sts onto 3 needles. Place marker at first stitch.
Rnd 1: Knit through back of loop of each st to end.
Rnd 2: [Yfwd, K1] 8 times.
Rnd 3 and all odd rnds: Knit.
Rnd 4: [Yfwd, K2] 8 times.
Rnd 6: [Yfwd, K3] 8 times.
Rnd 8: [Yfwd, K4] 8 times.
Rnd 10: [Yfwd, K5] 8 times.
Rnd 12: [Yfwd, K6] 8 times.
Rnd 14: [Yfwd, K7] 8 times.
Rnd 16: [Yfwd, K8] 8 times.
Rnd 18: [Yfwd, K1, yfwd, K2tog, K6] 8 times.
Rnd 20: *Yfwd, K1, [yfwd, K2tog] twice, K5, rep from * to end.
Rnd 22: * Yfwd, K1, [yfwd, K2tog] 3 times, K4, rep from * to end.
Rnd 24: * Yfwd, K1, [yfwd, K2tog] 4 times, K3, rep from * to end.
Rnd 26: * Yfwd, K1, [yfwd, K2tog] 5 times, K2, rep from * to end.
Rnd 28: * Yfwd, K1, [yfwd, K2tog] 6 times, K1, rep from * to end.
Rnd 30: * Yfwd, K1, [yfwd, K2tog] 7 times, rep from * to end of rnd.
Next rnd: Purl.
Next rnd: [Inc 1 st in next st knitways, K15] 8 times. Cast off purlways loosely.

10 Day Dishcloth Countdown! Day 4 ~ Feather &andFan Knitted Dishcloth

The Feather & Fan dishcloth is a pattern available on the back of Lily's Sugar & Cream cotton yarn. It has a nice, lacy look and makes a pretty dishcloth. Most of Lily's cotton yarns have dishcloth patterns printed on the back of the labels.

Feather & Fan Dishcloth

Materials: 1 ball cotton yarn, worsted weight
Size US 8 needles or size to give correct gauge

Gauge: 17 sts and 25 rows = 4" in stockinette stitch

Instructions:

Cast on 58 stitches loosely

Row 1: *K2, yfwd. K4. (K2tog) twice. K4, yfwd. K1, yfwd. K4. (k2tog) twice. K4, yfwd. K2
Rep from * once more
Row 2: K2, Purl to last 2 sts. K2.
Row 3: Knit across row
Row 4, 5, 6: Repeat first three rows. These 6 rows form the pattern.

Repeat these 6 rows 9 times more, then rows 1 and 2 once more.

Bind off.

10 Day Dishcloth Countdown! Day 3 ~ Be My Dishcloth

Kristen Patay's "Be My Dishcloth" pattern is adorable. I've just started my first one, and already know I'll be making more. Kristen's free pattern and picture follow. Just in time for Valentine's Day!


Finished Measurements : 10"x10"

Materials: 1 ball Lily Sugar'n Cream Solid
US #3/3.25mm needles

Chart:
* Chart does not include the 4 seed stitch border on either side

Pattern:
Cast on 47 sts

(k1, p1) to last stitch, k1. Repeat for 6 rows

row 1: "and all odd rows" (k1,p1) 2x, K to last 4s, (p1,k1)

row 2: (k1,p1)2x, p39, (p1,k1)2x
row 4: (k1,p1)2x, p39, (p1,k1)2x
row 6: (k1,p1)2x, p6, k1, p20, k1, p11, (p1,k1)2x
row 8: (k1,p1)2x, p5, k3, p18, k3, p10, (p1,k1)2x
row 10: (k1,p1)2x, p4, k5, p16, k2, p1, k2, p9, (p1,k1)2x

row 12: (k1,p1)2x, p3, k7, p6, k1, p7, k2, p3, k2, p8, (p1,k1)2x
row 14: (k1,p1)2x, p2, k9, p4, k3, (p5, k2)x2, p7 , (p1,k1)2x
row 16: (k1,p1)2x, p2, k9, p3, k2, p1, (k2, p3)x2, k1, p3, k2, p6, (p1,k1)2x
row 18: (k1,p1)2x, p2, k4, p1, k4, p2, k2, p3, k2, p1, k2, p3, k3, p3, k2, p5, (p1,k1)2x
row 20: (k1,p1)2x, (p3, k2)x2, p2, k2, p6, k2, p3, k5, p3, k2, p4, (p1,k1)2x

row 22: (k1,p1)2x, p11, k2, p3, k1, p2, k2, p3, k7, p3, k2, p3, (p1,k1)2x
row 24: (k1,p1)2x, p10, k2, p3, k2, p1, k2, p3, k9, p3, k2, p2, (p1,k1)2x
row 26: (k1,p1)2x, p9, k2, p3, k3, p1, k2, p2, k11, p2, k2, p2, (p1,k1)2x
row 28: (k1,p1)2x, p8, k2, p3, k4, p1, k2, p2, k11, p2, k2, p2, (p1,k1)2x
row 30: (k1,p1)2x, p7, k2, p3, k5, p1, k2, p2, k5, p1, k5, p2, k2, p2, (p1,k1)2x

row 32: (k1,p1)2x, p6, k2, p3, k6, p1, k2, p2, k4, p3, k4, p2, k2, p2, (p1,k1)2x
row 34: (k1,p1)2x, p5, k2, p3, k7, p1, k2, p3, k2, p2, k1, p2, k2, p3, k2, p2, (p1,k1)2x
row 36: (k1,p1)2x, p4, k2, p3, k9, p1, k2, p5, k3, p5, k2, p3, (p1,k1)2x
row 38: (k1,p1)2x, p3, k2, p3, k11, p1, k2, p3, k2, p1, k2, p3, k2, p4, (p1,k1)2x
row 40: (k1,p1)2x, p2, k2, p3, k13, p1, k5, p3, k5, p5, (p1,k1)2x

row 42: (k1,p1)2x, p2, k2, p2, k15, p7, k1, p10, (p1,k1)2x
row 44: (k1,p1)2x, p2, k2, p2, k10, p1, k10, p2, k2, p8, (p1,k1)2x
row 46: (k1,p1)2x, p2, k2, p2, k9, p3, k9, p2, k2, p8, (p1,k1)2x
row 48: (k1,p1)2x, p2, k2, p2, k8, p2, k1, p2, k8, p2, k2, p8, (p1,k1)2x
row 50: (k1,p1)2x, p2, k2, p2, k7, p2, k3, p2, k7, p2, k2, p8, (p1,k1)2x

row 52: (k1,p1)2x, p2, k2, p3, k5, p2, k2, p1, k2, p2, k5, p3, k2, p2, k1, p5, (p1,k1)2x
row 54: (k1,p1)2x, p3, k2, p8, k2, p3, k2, p8, k2, p2, k3, p4, (p1,k1)2x
row 56: (k1,p1)2x, p4, k2, p6, k2, p5, k2, p6, k2, p2, k5, p3, (p1,k1)2x
row 58: (k1,p1)2x, p5, k8, p7, k8, p2, k7, p2, (p1,k1)2x
row 60: (k1,p1)2x, p7, k5, p9, k5, p4, k7, p2, (p1,k1)2x

row 62: (k1,p1)2x, p31, k2, p1, k2, p3, (p1,k1)2x
row 64: (k1,p1)2x, p39, (p1,k1)2x
row 66: (k1,p1)2x, p39, (p1,k1)2x
row 68: (k1,p1) to last stitch, k1 Repeat for 4 more rows
next row: bind off in pattern

Weave in ends.

10 Day Dishcloth Countdown! Day 2 ~ Diagonal Knit Dishcloth

Grandmother’s Favorite with an inserted texture pattern. A tiny bit more challenging than the original but more stylish. This pattern is offered as a free internet pattern. Pattern and picture by Jana Trent.

Diagonal Knit Dishcloth

Materials:
Solid color, worsted weight cotton or linen yarn
Needles: size 6, or size to give a gauge of 4.5 sts per inch in stockinette stitch.

Terms:
SKP=Slip, Knit, Pass. Slip one stitch as if to knit; knit the next stitch; pass
the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch.

Directions:
Cast on 4 sts.
Row 1: knit
Row 2: k2, yo, knit to end.
Repeat Row 2 until there are 23 sts on needle.
Row 3: k2, yo, k9 (12 sts on right needle), yo, SKP, k remaining 10 sts.
Row 4: k2, yo, knit to end.
Row 5: k2, yo, k9, *yo, SKP. Repeat *, knit remaining 10 sts.
Row 6: as Row 4.
Repeat Rows 5 and 6, adding an additional *yo, SKP for each repeat,
until there are 55 sts (or until size desired and ending with an odd number of
sts).
Row 7: k1, k2tog, yo, k2tog, k8 (12 sts on right needle), *yo, SKP. Rep *
until 12 sts remain on left hand needle. Knit to end.
Row 8: k1, k2tog, yo, k2tog, knit to end.
Repeat Rows 7 & 8 until interior square is eliminated.
Repeat Row 8 until 5 sts remain.
Next row: k1, k2tog, k2.
Bind off.

Variations of this pattern may be knitted by substituting K2togTBL (knit 2
together through the back loop) or SSK (slip, slip, knit) for SKP in the
previous instructions.

©2008 Jana Trent

10 Day Dishcloth Countdown! Day 1 ~ Grandmother's Favorite

One of the quickest and easiest knitting projects has got to be the knitted dishcloth. I love the way theses perform, wear, and look. I've made dozens and never get tired of them. So today, and for the following nine days, I'll showcase some of my favorite free dishcloth patterns.

Day 1 dishcloth is from Traditional Designs. It's a very easy diagonally knit dishcloth with eyelet border. It's one that I've made several times.

Grandmother's Knitted Dishcloth

Materials: Sugar and Cream yarn; Size 6 or 7 needles (US)

Cast on 3 stitches.
Row 1: Knit 3 stitches
Row 2: K2, yarn over (yo), K to end of row
Repeat Row 2 until you have 40-42 stitches on the needle
Next Row: Knit even
Next Row: K1, K2tog, yo, K2, K to end of row
Continue with this row until 4 stitches remain
Next row: K1, K2tog, K1
Bind off the last 3 stitches

Upcoming Knitting Events - February 2009

Want to know what knitting events are scheduled for next month? Be sure to plan ahead so you don't miss one nearby!

February

5-16 Oaxaca, Mexico

Folk Art & Crafts; The Textile Traditions of Oaxaca: Coast & Valley

6-9

Embassy Suites Hotel, Nashville, TN

Nashville Needlework Market

7

Academy of the Sacred Hear, Bloomfield Hills, MI

Knit Michigan

7-8

Harveyville Project, Harveyville, KS

Camp Pluckyfluff Harveyville

12-15

Hotel Murano, Tacoma, WA

Madrona Fiber Arts Winter Retreat

14-15

Four Points Sheraton N, Mars, PA

Pittsburgh Knit & Crochet Festival

14-15

Mall of America, Minneapolis, MN

Knit-Out & Crochet

26-3/1

Santa Clara Conv Center, Santa Clara, CA

Stitches West 2009

Send me a comment if you know of any additional February knitting events and I'll add them to the list.

Knitted Market Bag Pattern

With all of the reuse, reduce, and recycle messages finally sinking in, many of us are finally embracing the concept of bringing our own reusable bags to the grocery store. This knitted market bag would take up little space, but offers ample room for shopping purchases. This market bag pattern was designed by JoAnne Turcotte ©2000 and is offered by the Plymouth Yarn Company as a free internet pattern.

Fantasy Naturale Market Bag

Size: Approx. 16” high X 12” diameter.
Materials: 2 skeins Fantasy Naturale cotton
straight needles: sizeUS 10½ for the base;
24” circular needle- size
US 15 for the body of bag
Gauge: Approx. 2 sts = 1” over openweave pattern. Gauge is not important. Loose open weave is desired.

Base:
With smaller (straight) needles loosely cast on 25 sts. Work in garter stitch until square (about 42 rows). Square will measure about 7”X 7”. Bind off loosely, but do not cut yarn. Change to larger (circular) needle. Pick up and knit 100 sts evenly around the base (25 sts on each side).
Sides of Bag:
Place a marker on the needle to designate the beginning of the round.
Round 1: Knit.
Round 2: *(K2, YO, K2tog) repeat from * around.
Round 3: Knit.
Round 4: *( YO, K2tog, K2) repeat from * around.
Repeat the last 4 rounds until total length is about 15”, ending with round 1 or 3.

Work top as follows:
Round 1: Purl.
Round 2: Knit.
Round 3: Purl.
Make handles:
Round 4: Knit 30, bind off 15, knit 35, bind off 15, knit 5.
Round 5: Purl 30, cast on 20 over the 15 bound off sts, purl 35, cast on 20 over the 15 bound off sts, purl 5. (110 sts.)
Round 6: Knit.
Round 7: Purl.
Round 8: Bind off all stitches loosely.
Weave in all ends.

Knitting Lingo

Every once in awhile I come across a knitting term that I have no idea what it means. Now I'm not talking actual knitting terms like knit, purl, or yarn over, I'm talking knitting slang or lingo. So for others who are sometimes confused and may want to know what "frogging" is or decide if you want to do a KAL, here are some knitting terms that you may find helpful ( from the Ravelry Knittinglingo page)

Ambistitcherous Having the ability to knit in two different styles

BeauFO A beautiful Finished Object
BFL blue-faced leicester, a breed of sheep
Bicraftual Someone who both crochets and knits
Bistitchual The ability to knit in two styles eg. English and Continental
BMFA Blue Moon Fiber Arts (yarn company)
BSJ Baby Surprise Jacket (pattern)

CAL Crochet ALong
CIP Crocheting In Public
Clap Clapotis (pattern)
Colorway The name or number assigned by a manufacturer to the color (or multi-colored combination) of a yarn
CPH Central Park Hoodie (pattern)
CPY Crystal Palace Yarns (yarn company)
CTH Cherry Tree Hill (yarn company)

Darn Overs (DOs) - The one’s you forget and have to tink back to. AKA @&%^#&%@!!
DB Debbie Bliss (designer and yarn company)
DPN Double Pointed Needles
DS Destash (sell unwanted yarn)

EOR End Of Row or Every Other Row
EZ Elizabeth Zimmermann (designer)

FO Finished Object
frog To rip back (for the sound “rip it, rip it”) by removing the needles from the project and pulling on the loose end of the yarn; also applies to crochet
Generally used when mistake is found below the row you are currently working, or when completely un-doing an entire project or piece. (see Tink)
frog pond a storage place for knitted and crocheted things waiting to be frogged
FSOT For Sale Or Trade

Gifted The act of giving yarn/items to another for free.
GOFO A GOrgeous Finished Object

ISO In Search Of

KAL Knit ALong
KIP Knit(ting) In Public
KL Knitting Loom
KP Knit Picks (yarn company)

LK Loom Knitting
LPW Lamb's Pride Worsted (yarn)
LYS Local Yarn Store
LYSO Local Yarn Store Owner

MK Machine Knit(ting)
muggle non-knitter

NoTN Not On The Needles
NWT New With Tags

OTH On The Hooks
OTN On The Needles

PIF Paying It Forward (or Pay It Forward)
PIGS Projects In Grocery Sacks
Pooling When one color in a Variegated yarn bunches together in an area.
Puddling According to the Yarn Harlot, similar to pooling, but more like a blotch.

SABLE Stash Acquisition Beyond Life Expectancy
SEX Stash Enhancement eXperience = buying yarn
SIP sock(s) in progress
Skank funny way of saying skein of yarn (skein+hank=skank)
STR Socks That Rock (yarn)
SWTC South West Trading Company (yarn company)

Tink To undo knitted stitches by reversing the knitting motion, effectively un-knitting the stitch. Used when fixing an error on the same row you are knitting. (tink is knit spelled backwards) (see also Frogging)

TOAD Trashed Object Abandoned in Disgust

UFO UnFinished Object (usually a WIP that has been abandoned or neglected)

WIM Work In Mind
WIP Work In Progress
WoTA Wool of the Andes (yarn)
WPI Wraps Per Inch (number of times yarn will wrap loosely around ruler or similar tool in one inch; more wraps indicates thinner yarn)

yarn barf (yarf?) a big lump of yarn that accidentally gets pulled out of a new center-pull ball, when you’re trying to find the end
Yarnie independent dyer or spinner with a small business

Knitted Swiffer Mop Cover

Ok, one of the strangest patterns I've come across in the past couple of weeks was for a Swiffer mop cover. But the more I thought about it, the more I decided it was more practical than strange. Especially since we had hardwood floors put in last fall. I'm getting out my swiffer every couple of days, and have been using those disposable sheets. A washable, reusable Swiffer pad really IS a good idea!

I searched for patterns for these and decided to use Green Mountain Mama's Swiffer Cozy pattern. In part, I chose this one because it won an honorable mention in the Whiplash Competition Color theme. And I liked the way it attached to the Swiffer.

I picked up some Sugar & Cream yarn and had my Swiffer Cozy finished in just a couple of hours. It works great, especially for little tufts of cat hair my kitty leaves around.

Green Mountain Mama's Swiffer Cozy

The pattern is based on the dishcloth pattern that is on the back of Sugar & Cream yarn. It's known as the Textured Slip Stitch Dishcloth or in the Mason Dixon Knitting book as the Ballband Dishcloth. The free Sugar & Cream Pattern is printed below, with Green Mountain Mama's additional pattern instructions to turn this into a Swiffer cover.

MATERIALS:
Worsted weight machine washable wool or cotton yarn - two contrasting colors or you can use up leftovers or stash yarns.
US 7 Needles or size to give correct gauge
4 buttons

GAUGE:
18 sts and 32 rows = 4"

PATTERN:
With color A, loosley cast on 45 stitches

Row 1: Using A, knit across row

Row 2: Purl across row

Row 3: Join color B, k4, slip 1 purlwise, *k5, sl 1 purlwise; rep from * to last 4 sts, k4

Row 4: K4, yarn forward (yf), slip 1 purlwise, yarn back (yb),
*k5, yf, slip 1 purlwise, yb; rep from * to last 4 sts, k4

Row 5: p4, yb, slip 1 purlwise, yf, *p5, yb, slip 1 purlwise, yf, rep from * to last 4 sts, p4

Row 6: Repeat Row 4

Row 7: Using A, knit across row

Row 8: Purl across row

Row 9: Using B, k1, slip 1 purlwise, *k5, slip 1 purlwise; rep from * to last st, k1

Row 10: K1, yf, slip 1 purlwise, yb, *k5, yf, slip 1 purlwise, yb; rep from * to last st, k1

Row 11: P1, yb, slip 1 purlwise, yf, *p5, yb, slip 1 purlwise, yf; rep from * to last st, p1

Row 12: Repeat Row 10

Repeat these rows 3 times for Swiffer cover
(For dishcloth, repeat 5 times, then rep rows 1 through 8, then bind off looseley)

For Swiffer cover, you will now have 6 rows of bands, which is just enough to cover the base of your Swiffer.

Knit one row
Purl one row
Knit one row

Start Tabs:
Change color if you'd like, knit 15 stitches, bind off next 15 stitches, knit 15 stitches.
Work these 15 stitches in garter stitch (k each row) for 16 rows

Buttonhole row:
Knit 3 stitches, k2tog, yo, k5, k2tog, yo, knit 3 stitches.
Knit three rows and bind off these 15 stitches.

Tabs:
There should still be 15 sts on your needle for the other tab. Work 16 rows in garter stitch, repeat buttonhole row instructions, knit three rows and bind off.

For the other two tabs, pick up 15 stitches from right side, work 19 rows of garter stitch (k each row) and bind off.
Pick up 15 stitches form the left side, work 19 rows of garter stitch and bind off.

FINISHING:
Try it on your Swiffer and note where the buttons need to be sewn onto the tabs. Sew on the buttons and Swiffer away!

Presidential Knits - Obama inspired creations

In honor of the Inauguration of the 44th President of the United States, today I'll showcase some of the Presidential knits that some very talented and creative people have made. These pictures were found on various blogs and search engines. I'm sure there are many more out there, but these are some of my favorites.

Laura Birek designed the "Obama-rama" raglan sweater. How beautiful!



A talented Minnesotan made these adorable "Gnomes for Obama."



Katie Park created this pattern and knit an Obama doll.



Jean Carter created and knit the Obama felted bag.



C Jane Knits has pics of her finished Obama knits on her blog pattern page:



Laura Chamberlain made an intricate Obama message scarf called "Inspiration." Look at the detail!


Lisa Millan has created a pattern for a dishcloth with President Obama's image!



And finally, My Savannah Cottage offers the Bark Obama dog sweater pattern. Maybe this will be the new fashion trend for the Obama family's new puppy :-)

Make a Swift - Swiftly!

Have your own swift? A friend showed off the coolest swift that fits compactly into a little travel case. She had received the homemade swift as a Christmas gift last year and her father had found the plans to make the swift online.

So I did a bit of digging online and found a few sites that offered plans to build a swift. I carefully printed out the plans that looked the best, presented them to my husband, and said "This is what I want for my birthday." Well, my birthday came and I received a beautifully made swift. Now, if you must know, my husband didn't make it. He ran out of time and he said the tools required were packed away in the storage shed. But he found the swift on etsy.com and I'm the lucky recipient of a nice birthday gift. I have to say, I've used it a lot already, and find it so handy.

For those of you who are interested in making a swift, the site that had wonderful directions and a great looking swift (pictured above) was instructables.com The link to the pdf file with pictures and construction instructions is here:
http://www.instructables.com/id/SewUseful:-Portable-Tabletop-Yarn-Swift-for-windi/?download=pdf
(And for those who don't care to make their own swift, there is a link there to purchase one on etsy)

A Week of Knitted Hats! Day 7 - The Unoriginal Knit Hat

Sometimes you gotta try something new! Stephanie Pearl-McPhee of the Yarn Harlot designed this cute hat she calls An Unoriginal Hat. She's made her pattern available as a free download. Stephanie's picture and pattern follows... Looks like an easy cable hat project - can't wait to try it.

An Unoriginal Hat

Materials: I skein Blue Moon Fiber Arts "Leticia" (Mine is in the colourway "Rooster Rock")
5 double pointed needles, size 7mm.

Gauge: about 12 stitches to 10cm, measured over cable pattern.
Size: It fits me (ladies small) and Meg (ladies medium) If you wanted a bigger one, you could go up a needle size.

Hat: Cast on 56 stitches, and distribute evenly (14 stitches on each needle) over 4 needles. This hat is worked in the round.

Set up row: *K4, P3, K4, P3 repeat from * around. (The set up and cable pattern runs over 14 stitches, so if you divide it onto 4 needles you will work the set up sequence and the chart once on each needle. Simple)

Work rows 1-16 of the chart twice, then the rest of the chart.
Break yarn, thread through remaining stitches, pull tight and fasten off. (Note: Until I can figure out how to fix it on the chart, please note that on row 20 , stitch 9 should be "no stitch". You'll end up with 4 stitches across the row.)

Click for Cable Chart (hold the CTRL key and use your mouse scroll button to make image larger)

A Week of Knitted Hats! Day 6 - The Thorpe

Now THIS is a hat for our cold Minnesota winters! As the temps this week may not make it up to zero, I decided this had to be my next hat project. I whipped this up in an evening - a really fast knit with the bulky yarn. Kristen Kapur designed this adorable "helmet" style hat. Her cool hat pattern follows. . . . . .
(See fine print at the bottom of this post for copyright usage compliance.)

The Thorpe

MATERIALS:
Yarn : Malabrigo Chunky 1(1, 2) Skeins
Contrast band and braids about half a skein

Needles: One pair US 9(5.5mm), 16” circular and one set of 5 US size
9(5.5mm) DPN’s or size to obtain gauge.
Crochet Hook: G (4.5mm)

GAUGE:
Hat: 14.5 stitches = 4” in stockinette

SIZE:
S, M, L

FINISHED MEASUREMENTS:
17.5(20, 22)” /44(50,56) cm

PATTERN DIRECTIONS:

Crown
Using DPN’s, cast on 4 stitches. Place one stitch on each of 4 needles, Join to work in the round.

Round 1: Knit into front and back (Kfb) of each stitch (8 stitches total) You may place stitch markers between each stitch at this point to mark the location of your increases.
Round 2: Kfb of each stitch (16 stitches total)
Round 3: *(Kfb, knit 1) repeat from * to end of round (24 stitches total)
Round 4: *(Kfb, Knit 2) repeat from * to end of round (32 stitches total)
Round 5: Knit
Round 6: *(Kfb, Knit 3) repeat from * to end of round (40 stitches total)
Round 7: Knit
Round 8: *(Kfb, Knit 4) repeat from * to end of round (48 stitches total)
Round 9: Knit
Round 10: *(Kfb, Knit 5) repeat from * to end of round (56 stitches total)
Round 11: Knit

When the hat gets too big to work easily on the DPN’s you may switch to the circular needle.

Round 12: *(Kfb, Knit 6) repeat from * to end of round (64 stitches total)
**Stop increasing here for size small.
Round 13: Knit
Round 14: *(Kfb, Knit 7) repeat from * to end of round (72 stitches total)

**Stop increasing here for size medium.

Round 15: Knit
Round 16: *(Kfb, Knit 8) repeat from * to end of round (80 stitches total)

**Stop increasing here for size large.

All Sizes: Continue to work in the round in stockinette stitch until the hat measures 6 (6.5,7)” from top.

Brim
Begin to work in garter stitch (one row knit, one row purl) until you have 4 (4,5) garter ridges. (A garter ridge is made up of two rounds, one knit and one purl.)

Next round (on a knit round): bind off 24(28, 30) stitches, knit to end of round.

Begin to work back and forth. Note that the slipped stitches at the beginning of the following rows will give you a clean edge to crochet into.

Next row (WS): Slip 1, knit to end.
Next row (RS): Slip 1, ssk, knit to last 3 stitches, k2tog, k1.
Next row (WS): Slip 1, knit to end.
Next row (RS): Slip1, ssk, knit 10(11,12), place these 12(13,14) stitches on a holder, bind off 12(14,18), knit to 3 stitches from the end, k2tog, k1. 12 (13, 14) stitches remain on the needle.

Earflaps
Continue in garter stitch, slipping first stitch and working back and forth on the 12(13,14) stitches that remain on the needle for a total of 10(11,11) garter ridges (including the ridges in the brim).

Next row (RS): Slip1, ssk, knit to last 3 stitches, k2tog, k1. Next row (WS): Slip 1, knit to end.
Next row (RS): Slip1, ssk, knit to last 3 stitches, k2tog, k1.
Next row (WS): Slip 1, knit to end.
Next row: Bind off.

Place remaining stitches on needles, attach yarn and make second earflap. Weave in ends.

Crochet Border
Using contrast yarn, half double crochet into each stitch all the way around, join the last stitch to the first and weave in the ends.

Braids
Cut 6 pieces of yarn 40” long. Loop the pieces through each of six crochet stitches at the bottom of the earflaps. Braid the pieces to desired length, and trim the ends neatly.

Copyright 2007 by Kirsten Kapur for Through the Loops. This pattern is intended for private use only. The pattern, photos and products made from the pattern may not be used for commercial purposes with out the written consent of the designer.

A Week of Knitted Hats! Day 5 - Three Tams

Angela Sixian Wu designed three adorable tams. My version of her Tam C is pictured above. These are free internet patterns available from knitty archives. I've made two of the tams and love them - definitely one of my favorite hats! Because you use a self-striping contrast color yarn, it's a really easy "fair isle" look.

FINISHED MEASUREMENTS:

Brim Circumference (unstretched, before blocking): 18 inches
Tam Circumference (unstretched, before blocking): 24 inches
After blocking with a 10.5 inch diameter plate, the finished tam will have a circumference of 33 inches (10.5 inches in diameter).

MATERIALS:

Worsted weight yarn - 1 skein (I used Blue Sky Suri Merino)

Noro Silk Garden yarn - 1 skein

RECOMMENDED NEEDLE SIZE:
(1) 16-inch US#4/3.5mm circular needle
(1) 24-inch US#6/4mm circular needle
US#6/4mm double-point needles
(Always use a needle size to give the gauge listed)

Stitches:

S2KP: Slip next 2 sts together knitwise, as if working a k2tog; k next st, pass slipped sts over. Forms a centered double decrease.

Corrugated Rib (Worked in the round over an even number of sts):
Set-up Round: [K1 using MC, k1 using CC] to end.
Pattern Round: [K1 using MC, p1 using CC] to end.
Repeat Pattern Round for Corrugated Rib

PATTERN:

Using 16-inch US#4/3.5mm circular needle and MC, CO 96 sts.

Place marker and join to begin working in the round, being careful not to twist.

Work 7 rounds in Corrugated Rib.

Next Round: Using MC, [k4, m1] to end.

Switch to 24-inch US#6/4mm circular needle and work all rounds of chart.

Except where otherwise noted, chart is worked 6 times in each round.

When last round of chart is complete, 6 sts remain. Break yarn.
Draw tail through remaining sts and pull tight.

PATTERN NOTES:
The decreases are a bit tricky....the decrease is a centered double decrease. You need to slip two stitches to the working needle as if you were going to knit them together (insert from the side of the second stitch), then knit the next (third) stitch and pass the two slipped stitches over the knitted one. Before you do this maneuver, you need to slip the last stitch of the previous row over before you knit it; the previous row is one stitch shorter than it would otherwise be. It's helpful to identify the exact stitch that needs to be on top for the decrease and ensure that it's that stitch that you insert the needle through when you slip two as if to k2tog. Rearrange the stitches as the row juncture to make it happen.

FINISHING:
Soak tam in water with a small amount of a gentle soap. Rinse, and squeeze gently to remove excess water.

Stretch tam over 10 1/2" dinner plate, positioning the tam carefully so that the pattern is centered. Allow to dry completely.
*** I find the 10 1/2" dinner plate is a wee bit large. I'd go 9 1/2" to 10".

A Week of Knitted Hats! Day 4 - Palindrome Hat

Palindrome Hat

This hat follows the same principles as the Palindrome Scarf (see A Week of Scarves - Day 5). It's got reversible cables, so will look great with the brim rolled up or left down. This is a design from Kristin Bellenhumeur and is is now available as a free internet pattern (see fine print at the bottom of this post for copyright usage compliance.)

Materials:
Heavy worsted weight yarn, approx 200 yards (130g)
Needles: Size 8 circular needle, 16 or 24 inches long. (Or size needed for gauge)
Size 8 DPNs (or longer circular for Magic Loop)
Cable needle
Gauge: 19 stitches and 24 rows in 4 inches over stockingette.

This hat is one size, but given the stretchy nature of ribbing, it will fit most teens and adults. You could reduce the yarn and needle size for a smaller hat.

Directions:
Cast on 120 stitches, place stitch marker, and join in the round.

Round 1: *K2, P2* around
Rounds 2-5: Repeat Rnd 1
Round 6: *K2, P2, C8F* repeat around.
Repeat rounds 1-6 two times more. Piece should measure approx 3 inches long.

*KEY*
C8F: Slip 4 sts to a cable needle and hold to front, K2, P2, then K2, P2 from the cable needle.

Continue in K2, P2 rib pattern (no more cables) until piece measures 8 inches long from cast on.
Next round: [K2, P2] for 20 sts, place marker. Repeat around. 6 stitch markers total.
(Note: It is wise to make the first stitch marker a different color than the rest to distinguish the beginning of the round.)

Begin decreases:
Round 1: *K2tog, P2, [K2, P2] to next stitch marker, slip marker*. Repeat around.
Round 2: *K1, P2tog, [K2, P2] to next marker, slip marker*. Repeat around.
Round 3: *P2tog, [K2, P2] to next marker, slip marker*. Repeat around.
Round 4: *K2tog, K1, P2, [K2, P2] to next marker, slip marker*. Repeat around.

Repeat rounds 1-4 until there are 8 stitches between stitch markers or 48 stitches total, switching to DPNs, 2 circulars or a Magic Loop when necessary.

Round 5: *K2tog, P2tog, K2, P2, slip marker*. Repeat around.
Round 6: *P2tog, K2tog, P2, slip marker*. Repeat around.
Round 7: *K2tog, P2tog, remove marker*. Repeat around.
Cut yarn leaving a 12" tail. Thread needle and pull yarn through all remaining stitches. Pull snug and weave in tails.

The cables on the brim are reversible so you can wear the hat with the brim folded up or down.

All content and photos are © Kristin Bellehumeur. All rights reserved.
You may print this pattern for personal, non profit use, as long as it is printed from www.cometosilver.com. And yes, you may sell your finished knitted hat! :)

A Week of Knitted Hats! Day 3 - Calorimetry Knit Headband

This buttoned headband would look great on those who have long hair. Although my hair is not long, I still think this is one of the coolest hats! This will definitely be one of my winter projects this year. This is another knitty archive hat and is available as a free internet pattern. Pattern & images © 2006 Kathryn Schoendorf.

FINISHED MEASUREMENTS:
Length: Stretches to 24 inches

MATERIALS:
1 skein worsted weight yarn
1 pair US #8/5mm straight needles or size to give correct gauge
2 stitch markers
Safety pin (optional)
Tapestry needle
1 button (Buy the button after the project is completed, to determine the size needed.)

GAUGE:
20 sts / 22 rows = 4 inches in 2x2 Rib, lightly stretched

PATTERN NOTES:
The project is worked using short rows. To work short rows, work to the point indicated in the pattern, then turn your work around and begin working back in the other direction. Holes will form in your work at the turning points of the short rows; don't worry! This is to be expected. One of these holes will be used as a buttonhole when the project is completed.

The pattern uses 2 stitch markers to help you keep track of your short rows. The first half of the piece is worked in short rows which progressively decrease in length, the second half in short rows which progressively increase in length.

2x2 Rib (Worked back and forth over a multiple of 4 sts):
Row 1: [K2, p2] to end.
Repeat this row for 2x2 Rib.

*** It is very important to obtain the correct gauge for this piece. If worked to the gauge stated above, your Calorimetry will be 24 inches long. If you want a shorter piece, you can either cast on fewer stitches, or work at a smaller gauge. For example, using sport weight yarn (on smaller needles) worked at a gauge of 24 sts = 4 inches will yield a piece that is 20 inches long.

It is also very important to consider the characteristics of the yarn you are choosing. Best results will be obtained from a yarn that is springy and resilient, which will retain the elasticity of the ribbing. Do not use a yarn which will lose its shape, becoming drapey and flaccid with wear.

*** Some who have made this pattern have used a smaller needle size and cast-on fewer stitches (80-100 instead of 120.) If you want this headband narrower, repeat row 5 and 7 fewer times.

DIRECTIONS:

CO 120 sts.
Row 1: Work all sts in 2x2 Rib.
Row 2: Work in 2x2 Rib as set to last 2 sts, turn work.
Row 3: Sl 1, work 3 sts, place marker, work to last 2 sts, turn work.
Row 4: Sl 1, work 3 sts, place second marker, work to next marker, turn work.
Row 5: Remove marker, sl 1, work 3 sts, replace marker, work to next marker, turn work.
Repeat Row 5 fifteen times more.
Row 6: Do not remove marker. Sl 1, work to next marker, turn work. 44 sts between markers; 38 sts at each side of piece, outside of markers.
Row 7: Sl 1, work to marker, remove marker, work 4 sts, replace marker, turn work.
Repeat Row 7 seventeen times more. 2 sts remain outside markers at each end of the piece.
Row 8: Sl 1, work to marker, remove marker, work last 2 sts.
Work 1 more row, removing final marker.

Loosely BO all sts.

A Week of Knitted Hats! Day 2 - Clamber (Irish Hiking Scarf companion)

The Clamber hat was designed by Laura Wilson-Martos to compliment the Irish Hiking Scarf (see A Week of Scarves - Day 1.) Adorable! Like the scarf, it looks much more difficult than it really is. This is a free internet pattern - see fine print at the bottom of this post for copyright usage compliance.

Clamber©

Materials:
Yarn: Misti International Misti Alpaca Sport [100% baby alpaca; 50g. 146yds/ball] 1 ball; Red Fiesta Melange
Needles: 1 set US size 4 [3.50 mm] DPNs and/or
1 US size 4 [3.5mm] 16”circular or
1 US size 4 [3.5 mm] 32” cable for magic loop
Gauge: 24 sts = 4" stockinette stitch

Terms & Stiches:
pm - place marker to indicate beginning of round
C6F - Slip 3 sts to cable needle and hold in front. K3, then knit the 3 sts off cable needle
C4F - Slip 2 sts to cable needle and hold in front. K2, then knit the 2 sts off cable needle
C2F - Slip 1 stitch to cable needle and hold in front. K1, then knit the stitch off cable needle
SSK - Slip one stitch as if to knit, slip the next stitch as if to purl, knit the two together through the back loops.
K2tog - Knit 2 together
P2tog - Purl 2 together

Directions:
• Provisionally CO 16 stitches
• Begin Brim Cable Repeat as follows:

Row 1 (WS) P3, K2, P6, K2, P3
Row 2 (RS) K3, P2, K6, P2, K3
Row 3 Repeat row 1
Row 4 K3, P2, C6F, P2, K3
Row 5 Repeat row 1
Row 6 Repeat row 2
Row 7 Repeat row 1
Row 8 Repeat row 2

• Repeat rows 1- 8 until piece measure 21” or approximate head circumference, ending on row 7.
• Remove provisional cast-on and graft ends to form a band.
• Pick up and knit 132 stitches completely around one of the outside edges of the band you just made
• Begin Hat Cable Repeat:
Round 1: pm [K2, P2, K6, P2] 11 times
Round 2: [K2, P2, K6, P2] 11 times
Round 3: Repeat row 1
Round 4: Repeat row 2
Round 5: Repeat row 1
Round 6: Repeat row 2
Round 7: Repeat row 1
Round 8: [K2, P2, C6F, P2] 11 times

• Repeat Rounds 1-8 until piece measures a total of approximately 6”, ending on row 3

Next Row: [K2, P2, SSK, K2, K2tog, P2] 11 times (110 sts)
Row 2: [K2, P2, K4, P2] 11 times
Row 3: [K2, P2tog, C4F, P2tog] 11 times (88 sts)
Row 4: [K2, P1, K4, P1] 11 times
Row 5: [K2, P1, SSK, K2tog, P1] 11 times (66 sts)
Row 6: [K2, P1, K2, P1] 11 times
Row 7: [K2tog, P1, C2F, P1] 11 times (55 sts)
Row 8: [K1, P1, K2, P1] 11 times
Row 9: [K1, P1, SSK, P1] 11 times (44 sts)
Row 10: [K1, P1, K1, P1] 11 times
Row 11: K2tog all around (22 sts)
Row 12: K2tog all around (11 sts)
Row 13: [K2tog] 5 times (6 sts)

• Break yarn and thread through remaining loops twice, removing them from needle.
• Snug it up tight and secure ends.
• Weave in ends and block lightly, being careful not to overblock. Overblocking will eliminate the 3-dimensional look of the cap.

Pictures and pattern by Laura Wilson-Martos - © Copyright 2008 Laura Wilson-Martos and Dizzy Blonde Designs all rights reserved. This pattern is provided for your personal use only. You may not sell this pattern, nor sell the items made using this pattern.

A Week of Knitted Hats! Day 1 - Basic Hat Pattern

I had fun with the "Week of Scarves" posts, so I thought I'd do the same with hats. My first hat post will be directions for a basic hat pattern. I've used this one a few times, changing a few things here and there to customize my hat. I'm working on a basic hat pattern now and I've added a couple of inches to the length so that I can have a wide rolled edge. However you decide to customize your hat, these directions will give you the basics for a correct fit.

Basic Hat Pattern

Materials: approximately 3 oz. skein of yarn

Needles: 16 circular needles or dp needles in a size that corresponds to the yarn you are using

Do the Math: Do a gauge swatch sample in stockinette stitch. Measure how many stitches you have per inch. This will be "A".

Measure how many inches around you'd like your hat to be (adults are typically around 20"-22"). Subtract 1" to 2" from this number, depending on whether you want a snug or looser fit. This will be "B".

Take "A" (nbr of stitches per inch) times "B" (your inches around minus 1-2"). This will be "C". Add or subtract a little from "C" until this number is divisible by 10. This is your new "C".

Add or subtract a little from "C" to make it divisible by 4. This is "D".

The difference between "C" and "D" is "E".

Directions: Cast on "D" stitches. Working in the round, do knit 2, purl 2 ribbing until the ribbing is desired length. If the hat is to be worn with the ribbing folded up, make the ribbing long enough to be folded (approximately 6" for adult size).

After the ribbing, work in stockinette stitch. Increase or decrease "E" so that you have "C" stitches on the needle. Continue to work in stockinette until the hat (from the cast on edge or fold of the brim) measures 5 1/2" for child, 6" for teen, 6 1/5" for women, or 7" for men.

To decrease for the top of the hat:
K8, k2tog around
K two rounds even
K7, k2tog around
K two rounds even
K6, k2tog around

Continue in this decrease pattern. When you get dow to around half of "D", decrease every round.
Last round: K2tog around. Break yarn, draw through remaining stitches.

*If your number of cast on stitches ("D") is divisible by 9, start your decreases for the top of the hat with K7, k2tog...
*If your number of cast on stitches ("D") is divisible by 8, start your decreases for the top of the hat with K6, k2tog...
*If your number of cast on stitches ("D") is divisible by 7, start your decreases for the top of the hat with K5, k2tog...
*If your number of cast on stitches ("D") is divisible by 6, start your decreases for the top of the hat with K4, k2tog...

Just the cutest little free bib patterns!

I came across some really cute free bib patterns the other day and decided I just had to make a couple. The pictured bib is the Modern Cabled Baby Bib pattern by Andrea Pomerantz. She offers this as a free internet pattern. I did mine in a blue Lion cotton yarn with size 6 needles (I knit loosely!) This one would fit the newborn or new baby. Have fun - these are a quick knit and easy to do.

I've also included three other bib patterns from a very talented Elaine Fitzpatrick. These are in my queue to knit. Wouldn't these make a cute baby shower gift?

Modern Cabled Baby Bib

Materials:
Size US8 needles
1/2 skein of Debbie Bliss Pure Cotton or Lily Sugar & Cream or Lion Cotton
3/4" to 1" button

Gauge: approx. 5 sts/inch and 7 rows/inch in seed stitch

Pattern:
Cast on 28 stitches
Row 1 (rs): (k1, p1) 10 times, [k1, p1, k4, p1, k1]
Row 2 (ws): [k1, k1, p4, k1, k1], (p1, k1) 10 times
Row 3: repeat row 1
Row 4: repeat row 2
Row 5: (k1, p1) 10 times, [k1, p1, C4B, p1, k1]
Row 6: repeat row 2
Continue with this 6-row repeat until length of bib is approx. 6", ending with a ws row.

Next row (rs): Bind off 20 stitches in k1, p1 pattern. On the remaining 8 stitches, continue working the six-row cable repeat (the sections above in brackets) until strap is 9" long from cast-off edge. End with row 6 of the cable repeat.

Next row (rs): Work buttonhole as follows: k1, p1, k1, yo, k2tog, k1, p1, k1.
Work two more rows (rows 2 and 3) of cable repeat, then bind off loosely and weave in ends. Sew a cute button with coordinating thread to the top corner of the seed stitch square, and you're done!

Abbreviations:
rs = right side
ws = wrong side
C4B = slip 2 stitches onto a cable needle and hold to back of work. Knit 2 stitches off the left needle, then knit the 2 stitches off cable needle.

Steggie Bib

Copyright 2008 by Elaine Fitzpatrick. Permission is granted to reproduce this pattern in any medium, as long as it is distributed for free and this copyright notice remains intact. Permission is also granted to produce items from this pattern for sale.

Materials: One skein of worsted weight cotton such as Sugar and Cream or
Peaches & Crème if you are using the bib for meals. If, on the other hand, you
want to use it as a “drool” bib, try a superwash wool. The
cotton has a tendancy to absorb the moisture, whereas the superwash wool will
wick the moisture and keep baby nice and dry!
Needles: Size 6
Gauge: 4.5 sts. per inch, not critical
Note: The edges of the bib are worked in a garter stitch border over the first and
last five stitches (knit every row). You might find it helpful to insert a marker
after the first five stitches and before the last five stitches.
When you reach the I-cords on the bib, it is helpful, but not necessary, to drop
down a needle size to make the cords slightly smaller.

Directions:
Cast on 15 stitches.
Row 1: p1, k1 across row.
Row 2: Cast on 3 stitches, k1, p1, across row. (18 sts.)
Row 3: Cast on 3 stitches, k1, p1 across row. (21 sts.)
Row 4: Cast on 3 stitches, p1, k1, across row. (24 sts.)
Row 5: Cast on 3 stitches, p1, k1, across row. (27 sts.)
Row 6: Cast on 2 stitches, p1, k1, across row. (29 sts.)
Row 7: Cast on 2 stitches, p1, k1, across row. (31 sts.)
Row 8: Cast on 2 stitches, p1, k1, across row. (33 sts.)
Row 9: Cast on 2 stitches, p1, k1, across row. (35 sts.)
Row 10: Cast on 2 stitches, p1, k1, across row. (37 sts.)
Row 11: Cast on 2 stitches, p1, k1, across row. (39 sts.)
Row 12: p1, k1 across row.
Row 13: p1, k1 across row.
Row 14: p1, k1 for 12 sts.; p15; k1, p1 for 12 sts.
Row 15: p1, k1 for 11 sts.; k17, p1, k1, for 11 sts.
Row 16: p1, k1 for 10 sts.; p19; k1, p1 for 10 sts.
Row 17: p1, k1 for 9 sts.; k21, p1, k1, for 9 sts.
Row 18: p1, k1 for 8 sts.; p23; k1, p1 for 8 sts.
Row 19: p1, k1 for 7 sts.; k25, p1, k1, for 7 sts.
Row 20: p1, k1 for 6 sts.; p27; k1, p1 for 6 sts.
Row 21: p1, k1 for 5 sts.; k29, p1, k1, for 5 sts.
Row 22: p1, k1 for 5 sts.; p29; p1, k1 for 5 sts.
(Note: From this point on, the first and last five stitches are the seed stitch
border. (p1, k1, p1, k1, p1 = B5) It might be helpful to place a marker for
these stitches.)
Row 23: B5; k29; B5.
Row 24: B5; p29; B5.
Row 25: B5; k1; p6; k3; p5; k3; p5; k6; B5.
Row 26: B5; p6; k5; p3; k5; p2; k5; p3; B5.
Row 27: B5; k4; p4; k2; p4; k3; p6; k6; B5.
Row 28: B5; p8; k4; p4; k3; p1; k4; p5; B5.
Row 29: B5; k5; p16; k8; B5.
Row 30: B5; p8; k15; p6; B5.
Row 31: B5; k6; p15; k8; B5.
Row 32: B5; p8; k16; p5; B5.
Row 33: B5; k4; p19; k6; B5.
Row 34: B5; p1; k25; p3; B5.
Row 35: B5; k2; p26; k1; B5.
Row 36: B5; p1; k26; p2; B5.
Row 37: B5; k1; p23; k1; p2; k2; B5.
Row 38: B5; p2; k26; p1+; B5.
Row 39: B5; k1; p25; k3; B5.
Row 40: B5; p7; k16; p2; k3; p1; B5.
Row 41: B5; k1; p2; k2; p18; k6; B5.
Row 42: B5; p6; k19; p4; B5.
Row 43: B5; k4; p19; k6; B5.
Row 44: B5; p6; k19; p4; B5.
Row 45: B5; k4; p11; k1; p3; k1; p3; k6; B5.
Row 46: B5; p6; k3; p1; k3; p1; k5; p1; k5; p4; B5.
Row 47: B5; k4; p4; k2; p4; k2; p3; k2; p1; k7; B5.
Row 48: B5; p10; k3; p2; k4; p3; k3; p4; B5.
Row 49: B5: k4; p2; k4; p4; k2; p3; k10; B5.
Row 50: B5; p11; k1; p3; k4; p10; B5.
Row 51: B5; k10; p3; k16; B5.
Row 52: p1, k1 for 6 sts.; p16; k1; p10. k1, p1 for 6 sts.
Row 53: p1, k1, for 7 sts.; k25; p1, k1 for 7 sts.
Row 54: p1, k1 for 8 sts.; p23; k1, p1 for 8 sts.
Row 55: p1, k1, for 9 sts.; k21; p1, k1 for 9 sts.
Row 56: p1, k1 for 10 sts.; p19; k1, p1 for 10 sts.
Row 57: p1, k1, for 11 sts.; k17; p1, k1 for 11 sts.
Row 58: p1, k1 for 12 sts.; p15; k1, p1 for 12sts.
Row 59: p1, k1 across row.
Row 60: p1, k1 across row.
Row 61: p1, k1 across row.
Row 62: p1, k1 across row.
Row 63: p1, k1 across 13 sts; bind off next 13 sts; work remaining stitches in
established seed stitch.
Shoulder Shaping:
Work one row even.
Working on these 13 sts, p1, k1 across row.
Dec. 1 st. at neck edge every other row 2 times. (11 sts.)
Work one row even.
Next row, dec. 1 st. at shoulder edge every other row until 5 sts. remain.
Work one row even.
Dec. 1 st. at neck edge and shoulder edge. 3 sts.
Work one row even.

I-Cord:
Slip these 3 sts. to a dpn and work an I-cord for approximately 12 inches. Fasten
off and run end down through middle of I-cord.

Join yarn to neck edge and work remaining side to correspond to other side.

"Green" Peace Bib

Copyright 2008 by Elaine Fitzpatrick. Permission is granted to reproduce this pattern in any medium, as long as it is distributed for free and this copyright notice remains intact. Permission is also granted to produce items from this pattern for sale.

Materials: One skein of worsted weight cotton such as Sugar and Cream or Peaches & Crème if you are using the bib for meals. If, on the other hand, you want to use it as a “drool” bib, I would recommend using a superwash wool. The cotton has a tendancy to absorb the moisture, whereas the superwash wool will wick the moisture and keep baby nice and dry!

Needles: Size 6
Gauge: 4.5 sts. per inch, not critical

Note: The edges of the bib are worked in a garter stitch border over the first and last five stitches (knit every row). You might find it helpful to insert a marker after the first five stitches and before the last five stitches.

When you reach the I-cords on the bib, it is helpful, but not necessary, to drop down a needle size to make the cords slightly smaller.

Directions:
Cast on 12 sts.
Row 1: k1, p1, across row.
Row 2: Cast on 3 sts., knit across row. (15 sts.)
Row 3: Cast on 3 sts., knit across row (18 sts.)
Row 4: Cast on 3 sts., knit, across row (21 sts.)
Row 5: Cast on 3 sts., knit, across row (24 sts.)
Row 6: Cast on 3 sts., knit, across row (27 sts.)
Row 7: Cast on 3 sts., knit, across row (30 sts.)
Row 8: Cast on 2 sts., knit, across row (32 sts.)
Row 9: Cast on 2 sts., knit, across row (34 sts.)
Row 10: Cast on 2 sts., knit, across row (36 sts.)
Row 11: Cast on 2 sts., knit, across row (38 sts.)
Row 12: k13; p12; k13.
Row 13: knit
Row 14: k11, p16; k11.
Row 15: knit.
Row 16: k9; p20; k9.
Row 17: knit
Row 18: k7; p24; k7.
Row 19: knit
Row 20: k5; p28; k5.

(Note: From this point on, keep the first and last five stitches in the established garter stitch for the border. You might find it helpful to insert a marker after the first five stitches and before the last five stitches.)

Row 21: knit.
Row 22: k5; p28; k5.
Row 23: knit.
Row 24: k5; p28; k5.
Row 25: k15; p8; k15.
Row 26: k5; p8, k12, p8; k5.
Row 27: k11; p4; k3; p2; k3; p4; k11.
Row 28: k5; p5; k3; p5; k2; p5; k3; p5; k5.
Row 29: k10; p2; k6; p2; k6; p2; k10.
Row 30: k5; p4; k3; p6; k2; p6; k3; p4; k5.
Row 31: k9; p4; k5; p2; k5; p4; k9.
Row 32: k5; p3; k2; p1; k3; p4; k2; p4; k3; p1; k2; p3; k5.
Row 33: k8; p2; k2; p3; k3; p2; k3; p3; k2; p2; k8.
Row 34: k5; p3; k2; p3; k3; p2; k2; p2; k3; p3; k2; p3; k5.
Row 35: k8; p2; k4; p3; k1; p2; k1; p3; k4; p2; k8.
Row 36: k5; p3, k2; p5; k8; p5; k2; p3, k5.
Row 37: k8; p2; k6; p6; k6; p2; k8.
Row 38: k5; p3; k2; p7; k4; p7; k2; p3; k5.
Row 39: k8; p2; k8; p2; k8; p2; k8.
Row 40: k5; p3; k2; p8; k2; p8; k2; p3; k5.
Row 41: k8; p2; k8; p2; k8; p2; k8.
Row 42: k5; p4; k2; p7; k2; p7; k2; p4; k5.
Row 43: k9; p3; k6; p2; k6; p3; k9.
Row 44: k5; p5; k2; p6; k2; p6; k2; p5; k5.
Row 45: k10; p3; k5; p2; k5; p3; k10.
Row 46: k5; p6; k4; p3; k2; p3; k4; p6; k5.
Row 47: k13; p12; k13.
Row 48: k5; p10; k8; p10; k5.
Row 49: knit.
Row 50: k5; p28; k5.
Row 51: knit.
Row 52: k5; p28; k5.
Row 53: knit.
Row 54: k5; p28; k5.
Row 55: knit.
Row 56: k5; p28; k5.
Row 57: knit.
Row 58: k5; p8; k12; p8; k5.
Row 59: knit.
Row 60: k6; p5; k16; p5; k6.
Row 61: knit.
Row 62: knit.
Row 63: knit 13 stitches.; bind off next 12 stitches knitwise; knit remaining stitches. You should have 13 stitches on each side. Place first 13 stitches on a holder and work on remaining 13 stitches in garter stitch as follows:

Shoulder shaping:
Knit one row even.
(Right side) Dec. 1 st. at neck edge every other row 2 times. (11 sts.)
Knit one row even.
Dec. 1 st. at shoulder edge every other row until 5 sts. remain.
Knit one row even.
(Right side) Dec. 1 st. at neck edge and 1 st. at shoulder edge. 3 sts.
Knit one row even.

I-cord:
Slip these 3 sts. to a dpn and work an I-cord for approximately 12 inches. Fasten off and run end down through middle of I-cord.

Join yarn to neck edge and work remaining side to correspond to other side.

Something's Fishy Bib

Copyright 2008 by Elaine Fitzpatrick. Permission is granted to reproduce this pattern in any medium, as long as it is distributed for free and this copyright notice remains intact. Permission is also granted to produce items from this pattern for sale.

Materials: One skein of worsted weight cotton such as Sugar and Cream or Peaches & Crème if you are using the bib for meals. If, on the other hand, you want to use it as a “drool” bib, I would recommend using a superwash wool. The cotton has a tendancy to absorb the moisture, whereas the superwash wool will wick the moisture and keep baby nice and dry!

Needles: Size 6
Gauge: 4.5 sts. per inch, not critical

When you reach the I-cords on the bib, it is helpful, but not necessary, to drop down a needle size to make the cords slightly smaller.

Directions:
Cast on 13 stitches.
Row 1: Knit
Row 2: Cast on 3 stitches, k 13. (16 sts.)
Row 3: Cast on 3 stitches; k 16. (19 sts.)
Row 4: Cast on 3 stitches; k 19; (22 sts.)
Row 5: Cast on 3 stitches; k 22. (25 sts.)
Row 6: Cast on 3 stitches; k 25. (28 sts.)
Row 7: Cast on 3 stitches; k 28. (31 sts.)
Row 8: Cast on 2 stitches; k5; p3; k3; p5; k3; p5; k3; p1; k5. (33 sts.)
Row 9: Cast on 2 stitches; k9; p1; k7; p1; k7; p1; k9. (35 sts.)
Row 10: Cast on 2 stitches; k5; p1; (k3, p5) 3 times end k7. (37 sts.)
Row 11: Cast on 2 stitches; k9; (p1; k3) 5 times; end p1; k9. (39 sts.)
Row 12: k4; p6; (k1, p1, k1; p5) 2 times; k1; p1 k1; p6; k4.
Row 13: k11; p1; k7; p1; k7; p1; k11.
Row 14: k3; p3; (k3, p5) 3 times; k3; p3; k3.
Row 15: k5; (p1; k3) 7 times; end p1; k5.
Row 16: k3; p1; k1; p5; (k1, p1, k1; p5) 3 times; k1; p1; k3.
Row 17: k3; (p1, k7) 4 times; end p1; k3.
Row 18: k3; p3; k1; p25; k1; p3; k3.
Row 19: k5; p1; k27; p1; k5.
Row 20: k3; p1; k1; p29; k1; p1; k3.
Row 21: k3; p1; k24; p1; k6; p1; k3.
Row 22: k3; p3; k1; p3; k2; p2; k2; p16; k1; p3; k3.
Row 23: k5; p1; k16; p2; k2; p3; k4; p1; k5.
Row 24: k3; p1; k1; p5; k8; p16; k1; p1; k3.
Row 25: k3; p1; k16; p8; k7; p1; k3.
Row 26: k3; p3; k1; p5; k8; p12; k1; p3; k3.
Row 27: k5; p1; k13; p9; k5; p1; k5.
Row 28: k3; p1; k1; p5; k9; p15; k1; p1; k3.
Row 29: k3; p1; k14; p1; k2; p4; k1; p3; k6; p1; k3.
Row 30: k3; p3; k1; p3; k2; p2; k3; p15; k1; p3; k3.
Row 31: k5; p1; k12; p1; k4; p3; k2; p1; k4; p1; k5.
Row 32: k3; p1; k1; p29; k1; p1; k3.
Row 33: k3; p1; k15; p1; k15; p1; k3.
Row 34: k3; p3; k1; p16; k2; p3; k1; p3; k1; p3; k3.
Row 35: k5; p1; k4; p2; k3; p2; k16; p1; k5.
Row 36: k3; p1; k1; p16; k8; p5; k1; p1; k3.
Row 37: k3; p1; k6; p9; k16; p1; k3.
Row 38: k3; p3; k1; p12; k9; p4; k1; p3; k3.
Row 39: k5; p1; k6; p8; k1; p1; k11; p1; k5.
Row 40: k3; p1; k1; p15; k8; p6; k1; p1; k3.
Row 41: k3; p1; k6; p3; k1; p4; k3; p1; k13; p1; k3.
Row 42: k3; p3; k1; p15; k3; p2; k2; p3; k1; p3; k3.
Row 43: k5; p1; k4; p1; k2; p3; k4; p1; k12; p1; k5.
Row 44: k3; p1; k1; p29; k1; p1; k3.
Row 45: k3; p1; k23; p1; k7; p1; k3.
Row 46: k3; p3; k1; p4; k2; p2; k2; p15; k1; p3; k3.
Row 47: k5; p1; k15; p2; k2; p3; k5; p1; k5.
Row 48: k3; p1; k1; p6; k8; p15; k1; p1; k3.
Row 49: k3; p1; k15; p8; k8; p1; k3
Row 50: k3; p3; k1; p6; k8; p11; k1; p3; k3.
Row 51: k5; p1; k10; p1; k1; p9; k6; p1; k5.
Row 52: k3; p1; k1; p6; k9; p14; k1; p1; k3.
Row 53: k3; p1; k12; p1; k3; p4; k1; p3; k7; p1; k3.
Row 54: k3; p3; k1; p4; k2; p2; k3; p14; k1; p3; k3.
Row 55: k5; p1; k11; p1; k4; p3; k2; p1; k5; p1; k5.
Row 56: k3; p1; k1; p29; k1; p1; k3.
Row 57: k3; p1; k31; p1; k3.
Row 58: k3; p3; k3; (p5 k3) 3 times end p3; k3.
Row 59: k5; (p1, k3) 6 times; end p1; k5.
Row 60: k3; p1; k1; p5; (k1, p1, k1, p5) 3 times; end k1; p1; k3.
Row 61: k3; (p1, k7) 4 times; end p1; k3.
Row 62: k3; p3; across row, end k3.
Row 63: k5; (p1, k3) across row, end p1; k5.
Row 64: k3; p1; k1; p1; k3; (p1, k1, p1, k1, p1 k3) 3 times end p1; k1; p1; k3.
Row 65: k3; (p1, k7) 4 times; end p1; k3.
Row 66: Knit.
Row 67: Knit.
Row 68: Knit.

Shoulder shaping:
Knit 13 sts.; bind off next 13 sts. knitwise; knit remaining 13 sts. You should have 13 sts. on each side. Place first 13 stitches on a holder and work on remaining 13 sts. in garter stitch as follows:
Knit one row even.
(Right side) Dec. 1 st. at neck edge every other row 2 times. (11 sts.)
Work one row even.
Dec. 1 st. at shoulder edge every other row until 5 sts. remain.
Knit one row even.
(Right side) Dec. 1 st. at neck edge and 1 st. at shoulder edge. 3 sts.
Knit one row even.

I-cord:
Slip these 3 sts. to a dpn and work an I-cord for approximately 12 inches. Fasten off and run end down through middle of I-cord.

Join yarn to neck edge and work remaining side to correspond to other side.