I came across some really cute free bib patterns the other day and decided I just had to make a couple. The pictured bib is the Modern Cabled Baby Bib pattern by Andrea Pomerantz. She offers this as a free internet pattern. I did mine in a blue Lion cotton yarn with size 6 needles (I knit loosely!) This one would fit the newborn or new baby. Have fun - these are a quick knit and easy to do.
I've also included three other bib patterns from a very talented Elaine Fitzpatrick. These are in my queue to knit. Wouldn't these make a cute baby shower gift?
Modern Cabled Baby Bib
Materials:
Size US8 needles
1/2 skein of Debbie Bliss Pure Cotton or Lily Sugar & Cream or Lion Cotton
3/4" to 1" button
Gauge: approx. 5 sts/inch and 7 rows/inch in seed stitch
Pattern:
Cast on 28 stitches
Row 1 (rs): (k1, p1) 10 times, [k1, p1, k4, p1, k1]
Row 2 (ws): [k1, k1, p4, k1, k1], (p1, k1) 10 times
Row 3: repeat row 1
Row 4: repeat row 2
Row 5: (k1, p1) 10 times, [k1, p1, C4B, p1, k1]
Row 6: repeat row 2
Continue with this 6-row repeat until length of bib is approx. 6", ending with a ws row.
Next row (rs): Bind off 20 stitches in k1, p1 pattern. On the remaining 8 stitches, continue working the six-row cable repeat (the sections above in brackets) until strap is 9" long from cast-off edge. End with row 6 of the cable repeat.
Work two more rows (rows 2 and 3) of cable repeat, then bind off loosely and weave in ends. Sew a cute button with coordinating thread to the top corner of the seed stitch square, and you're done!
Abbreviations:
rs = right side
ws = wrong side
C4B = slip 2 stitches onto a cable needle and hold to back of work. Knit 2 stitches off the left needle, then knit the 2 stitches off cable needle.
Steggie Bib
Materials: One skein of worsted weight cotton such as Sugar and Cream or
Peaches & Crème if you are using the bib for meals. If, on the other hand, you
want to use it as a “drool” bib, try a superwash wool. The
cotton has a tendancy to absorb the moisture, whereas the superwash wool will
wick the moisture and keep baby nice and dry!
Needles: Size 6
Gauge: 4.5 sts. per inch, not critical
Note: The edges of the bib are worked in a garter stitch border over the first and
last five stitches (knit every row). You might find it helpful to insert a marker
after the first five stitches and before the last five stitches.
When you reach the I-cords on the bib, it is helpful, but not necessary, to drop
down a needle size to make the cords slightly smaller.
Directions:
Cast on 15 stitches.
Row 1: p1, k1 across row.
Row 2: Cast on 3 stitches, k1, p1, across row. (18 sts.)
Row 3: Cast on 3 stitches, k1, p1 across row. (21 sts.)
Row 4: Cast on 3 stitches, p1, k1, across row. (24 sts.)
Row 5: Cast on 3 stitches, p1, k1, across row. (27 sts.)
Row 6: Cast on 2 stitches, p1, k1, across row. (29 sts.)
Row 7: Cast on 2 stitches, p1, k1, across row. (31 sts.)
Row 8: Cast on 2 stitches, p1, k1, across row. (33 sts.)
Row 9: Cast on 2 stitches, p1, k1, across row. (35 sts.)
Row 10: Cast on 2 stitches, p1, k1, across row. (37 sts.)
Row 11: Cast on 2 stitches, p1, k1, across row. (39 sts.)
Row 12: p1, k1 across row.
Row 13: p1, k1 across row.
Row 14: p1, k1 for 12 sts.; p15; k1, p1 for 12 sts.
Row 15: p1, k1 for 11 sts.; k17, p1, k1, for 11 sts.
Row 16: p1, k1 for 10 sts.; p19; k1, p1 for 10 sts.
Row 17: p1, k1 for 9 sts.; k21, p1, k1, for 9 sts.
Row 18: p1, k1 for 8 sts.; p23; k1, p1 for 8 sts.
Row 19: p1, k1 for 7 sts.; k25, p1, k1, for 7 sts.
Row 20: p1, k1 for 6 sts.; p27; k1, p1 for 6 sts.
Row 21: p1, k1 for 5 sts.; k29, p1, k1, for 5 sts.
Row 22: p1, k1 for 5 sts.; p29; p1, k1 for 5 sts.
(Note: From this point on, the first and last five stitches are the seed stitch
border. (p1, k1, p1, k1, p1 = B5) It might be helpful to place a marker for
these stitches.)
Row 23: B5; k29; B5.
Row 24: B5; p29; B5.
Row 25: B5; k1; p6; k3; p5; k3; p5; k6; B5.
Row 26: B5; p6; k5; p3; k5; p2; k5; p3; B5.
Row 27: B5; k4; p4; k2; p4; k3; p6; k6; B5.
Row 28: B5; p8; k4; p4; k3; p1; k4; p5; B5.
Row 29: B5; k5; p16; k8; B5.
Row 30: B5; p8; k15; p6; B5.
Row 31: B5; k6; p15; k8; B5.
Row 32: B5; p8; k16; p5; B5.
Row 33: B5; k4; p19; k6; B5.
Row 34: B5; p1; k25; p3; B5.
Row 35: B5; k2; p26; k1; B5.
Row 36: B5; p1; k26; p2; B5.
Row 37: B5; k1; p23; k1; p2; k2; B5.
Row 38: B5; p2; k26; p1+; B5.
Row 39: B5; k1; p25; k3; B5.
Row 40: B5; p7; k16; p2; k3; p1; B5.
Row 41: B5; k1; p2; k2; p18; k6; B5.
Row 42: B5; p6; k19; p4; B5.
Row 43: B5; k4; p19; k6; B5.
Row 44: B5; p6; k19; p4; B5.
Row 45: B5; k4; p11; k1; p3; k1; p3; k6; B5.
Row 46: B5; p6; k3; p1; k3; p1; k5; p1; k5; p4; B5.
Row 47: B5; k4; p4; k2; p4; k2; p3; k2; p1; k7; B5.
Row 48: B5; p10; k3; p2; k4; p3; k3; p4; B5.
Row 49: B5: k4; p2; k4; p4; k2; p3; k10; B5.
Row 50: B5; p11; k1; p3; k4; p10; B5.
Row 51: B5; k10; p3; k16; B5.
Row 52: p1, k1 for 6 sts.; p16; k1; p10. k1, p1 for 6 sts.
Row 53: p1, k1, for 7 sts.; k25; p1, k1 for 7 sts.
Row 54: p1, k1 for 8 sts.; p23; k1, p1 for 8 sts.
Row 55: p1, k1, for 9 sts.; k21; p1, k1 for 9 sts.
Row 56: p1, k1 for 10 sts.; p19; k1, p1 for 10 sts.
Row 57: p1, k1, for 11 sts.; k17; p1, k1 for 11 sts.
Row 58: p1, k1 for 12 sts.; p15; k1, p1 for 12sts.
Row 59: p1, k1 across row.
Row 60: p1, k1 across row.
Row 61: p1, k1 across row.
Row 62: p1, k1 across row.
Row 63: p1, k1 across 13 sts; bind off next 13 sts; work remaining stitches in
established seed stitch.
Shoulder Shaping:
Work one row even.
Working on these 13 sts, p1, k1 across row.
Dec. 1 st. at neck edge every other row 2 times. (11 sts.)
Work one row even.
Next row, dec. 1 st. at shoulder edge every other row until 5 sts. remain.
Work one row even.
Dec. 1 st. at neck edge and shoulder edge. 3 sts.
Work one row even.
I-Cord:
Slip these 3 sts. to a dpn and work an I-cord for approximately 12 inches. Fasten
off and run end down through middle of I-cord.
Join yarn to neck edge and work remaining side to correspond to other side.
Copyright 2008 by Elaine Fitzpatrick. Permission is granted to reproduce this pattern in any medium, as long as it is distributed for free and this copyright notice remains intact. Permission is also granted to produce items from this pattern for sale.
Materials: One skein of worsted weight cotton such as Sugar and Cream or
Peaches & Crème if you are using the bib for meals. If, on the other hand, you
want to use it as a “drool” bib, try a superwash wool. The
cotton has a tendancy to absorb the moisture, whereas the superwash wool will
wick the moisture and keep baby nice and dry!
Needles: Size 6
Gauge: 4.5 sts. per inch, not critical
Note: The edges of the bib are worked in a garter stitch border over the first and
last five stitches (knit every row). You might find it helpful to insert a marker
after the first five stitches and before the last five stitches.
When you reach the I-cords on the bib, it is helpful, but not necessary, to drop
down a needle size to make the cords slightly smaller.
Directions:
Cast on 15 stitches.
Row 1: p1, k1 across row.
Row 2: Cast on 3 stitches, k1, p1, across row. (18 sts.)
Row 3: Cast on 3 stitches, k1, p1 across row. (21 sts.)
Row 4: Cast on 3 stitches, p1, k1, across row. (24 sts.)
Row 5: Cast on 3 stitches, p1, k1, across row. (27 sts.)
Row 6: Cast on 2 stitches, p1, k1, across row. (29 sts.)
Row 7: Cast on 2 stitches, p1, k1, across row. (31 sts.)
Row 8: Cast on 2 stitches, p1, k1, across row. (33 sts.)
Row 9: Cast on 2 stitches, p1, k1, across row. (35 sts.)
Row 10: Cast on 2 stitches, p1, k1, across row. (37 sts.)
Row 11: Cast on 2 stitches, p1, k1, across row. (39 sts.)
Row 12: p1, k1 across row.
Row 13: p1, k1 across row.
Row 14: p1, k1 for 12 sts.; p15; k1, p1 for 12 sts.
Row 15: p1, k1 for 11 sts.; k17, p1, k1, for 11 sts.
Row 16: p1, k1 for 10 sts.; p19; k1, p1 for 10 sts.
Row 17: p1, k1 for 9 sts.; k21, p1, k1, for 9 sts.
Row 18: p1, k1 for 8 sts.; p23; k1, p1 for 8 sts.
Row 19: p1, k1 for 7 sts.; k25, p1, k1, for 7 sts.
Row 20: p1, k1 for 6 sts.; p27; k1, p1 for 6 sts.
Row 21: p1, k1 for 5 sts.; k29, p1, k1, for 5 sts.
Row 22: p1, k1 for 5 sts.; p29; p1, k1 for 5 sts.
(Note: From this point on, the first and last five stitches are the seed stitch
border. (p1, k1, p1, k1, p1 = B5) It might be helpful to place a marker for
these stitches.)
Row 23: B5; k29; B5.
Row 24: B5; p29; B5.
Row 25: B5; k1; p6; k3; p5; k3; p5; k6; B5.
Row 26: B5; p6; k5; p3; k5; p2; k5; p3; B5.
Row 27: B5; k4; p4; k2; p4; k3; p6; k6; B5.
Row 28: B5; p8; k4; p4; k3; p1; k4; p5; B5.
Row 29: B5; k5; p16; k8; B5.
Row 30: B5; p8; k15; p6; B5.
Row 31: B5; k6; p15; k8; B5.
Row 32: B5; p8; k16; p5; B5.
Row 33: B5; k4; p19; k6; B5.
Row 34: B5; p1; k25; p3; B5.
Row 35: B5; k2; p26; k1; B5.
Row 36: B5; p1; k26; p2; B5.
Row 37: B5; k1; p23; k1; p2; k2; B5.
Row 38: B5; p2; k26; p1+; B5.
Row 39: B5; k1; p25; k3; B5.
Row 40: B5; p7; k16; p2; k3; p1; B5.
Row 41: B5; k1; p2; k2; p18; k6; B5.
Row 42: B5; p6; k19; p4; B5.
Row 43: B5; k4; p19; k6; B5.
Row 44: B5; p6; k19; p4; B5.
Row 45: B5; k4; p11; k1; p3; k1; p3; k6; B5.
Row 46: B5; p6; k3; p1; k3; p1; k5; p1; k5; p4; B5.
Row 47: B5; k4; p4; k2; p4; k2; p3; k2; p1; k7; B5.
Row 48: B5; p10; k3; p2; k4; p3; k3; p4; B5.
Row 49: B5: k4; p2; k4; p4; k2; p3; k10; B5.
Row 50: B5; p11; k1; p3; k4; p10; B5.
Row 51: B5; k10; p3; k16; B5.
Row 52: p1, k1 for 6 sts.; p16; k1; p10. k1, p1 for 6 sts.
Row 53: p1, k1, for 7 sts.; k25; p1, k1 for 7 sts.
Row 54: p1, k1 for 8 sts.; p23; k1, p1 for 8 sts.
Row 55: p1, k1, for 9 sts.; k21; p1, k1 for 9 sts.
Row 56: p1, k1 for 10 sts.; p19; k1, p1 for 10 sts.
Row 57: p1, k1, for 11 sts.; k17; p1, k1 for 11 sts.
Row 58: p1, k1 for 12 sts.; p15; k1, p1 for 12sts.
Row 59: p1, k1 across row.
Row 60: p1, k1 across row.
Row 61: p1, k1 across row.
Row 62: p1, k1 across row.
Row 63: p1, k1 across 13 sts; bind off next 13 sts; work remaining stitches in
established seed stitch.
Shoulder Shaping:
Work one row even.
Working on these 13 sts, p1, k1 across row.
Dec. 1 st. at neck edge every other row 2 times. (11 sts.)
Work one row even.
Next row, dec. 1 st. at shoulder edge every other row until 5 sts. remain.
Work one row even.
Dec. 1 st. at neck edge and shoulder edge. 3 sts.
Work one row even.
I-Cord:
Slip these 3 sts. to a dpn and work an I-cord for approximately 12 inches. Fasten
off and run end down through middle of I-cord.
Join yarn to neck edge and work remaining side to correspond to other side.
"Green" Peace Bib
Copyright 2008 by Elaine Fitzpatrick. Permission is granted to reproduce this pattern in any medium, as long as it is distributed for free and this copyright notice remains intact. Permission is also granted to produce items from this pattern for sale.
Materials: One skein of worsted weight cotton such as Sugar and Cream or Peaches & Crème if you are using the bib for meals. If, on the other hand, you want to use it as a “drool” bib, I would recommend using a superwash wool. The cotton has a tendancy to absorb the moisture, whereas the superwash wool will wick the moisture and keep baby nice and dry!
Needles: Size 6
Gauge: 4.5 sts. per inch, not critical
Note: The edges of the bib are worked in a garter stitch border over the first and last five stitches (knit every row). You might find it helpful to insert a marker after the first five stitches and before the last five stitches.
When you reach the I-cords on the bib, it is helpful, but not necessary, to drop down a needle size to make the cords slightly smaller.
Directions:
Cast on 12 sts.
Row 1: k1, p1, across row.
Row 2: Cast on 3 sts., knit across row. (15 sts.)
Row 3: Cast on 3 sts., knit across row (18 sts.)
Row 4: Cast on 3 sts., knit, across row (21 sts.)
Row 5: Cast on 3 sts., knit, across row (24 sts.)
Row 6: Cast on 3 sts., knit, across row (27 sts.)
Row 7: Cast on 3 sts., knit, across row (30 sts.)
Row 8: Cast on 2 sts., knit, across row (32 sts.)
Row 9: Cast on 2 sts., knit, across row (34 sts.)
Row 10: Cast on 2 sts., knit, across row (36 sts.)
Row 11: Cast on 2 sts., knit, across row (38 sts.)
Row 12: k13; p12; k13.
Row 13: knit
Row 14: k11, p16; k11.
Row 15: knit.
Row 16: k9; p20; k9.
Row 17: knit
Row 18: k7; p24; k7.
Row 19: knit
Row 20: k5; p28; k5.
(Note: From this point on, keep the first and last five stitches in the established garter stitch for the border. You might find it helpful to insert a marker after the first five stitches and before the last five stitches.)
Row 21: knit.
Row 22: k5; p28; k5.
Row 23: knit.
Row 24: k5; p28; k5.
Row 25: k15; p8; k15.
Row 26: k5; p8, k12, p8; k5.
Row 27: k11; p4; k3; p2; k3; p4; k11.
Row 28: k5; p5; k3; p5; k2; p5; k3; p5; k5.
Row 29: k10; p2; k6; p2; k6; p2; k10.
Row 30: k5; p4; k3; p6; k2; p6; k3; p4; k5.
Row 31: k9; p4; k5; p2; k5; p4; k9.
Row 32: k5; p3; k2; p1; k3; p4; k2; p4; k3; p1; k2; p3; k5.
Row 33: k8; p2; k2; p3; k3; p2; k3; p3; k2; p2; k8.
Row 34: k5; p3; k2; p3; k3; p2; k2; p2; k3; p3; k2; p3; k5.
Row 35: k8; p2; k4; p3; k1; p2; k1; p3; k4; p2; k8.
Row 36: k5; p3, k2; p5; k8; p5; k2; p3, k5.
Row 37: k8; p2; k6; p6; k6; p2; k8.
Row 38: k5; p3; k2; p7; k4; p7; k2; p3; k5.
Row 39: k8; p2; k8; p2; k8; p2; k8.
Row 40: k5; p3; k2; p8; k2; p8; k2; p3; k5.
Row 41: k8; p2; k8; p2; k8; p2; k8.
Row 42: k5; p4; k2; p7; k2; p7; k2; p4; k5.
Row 43: k9; p3; k6; p2; k6; p3; k9.
Row 44: k5; p5; k2; p6; k2; p6; k2; p5; k5.
Row 45: k10; p3; k5; p2; k5; p3; k10.
Row 46: k5; p6; k4; p3; k2; p3; k4; p6; k5.
Row 47: k13; p12; k13.
Row 48: k5; p10; k8; p10; k5.
Row 49: knit.
Row 50: k5; p28; k5.
Row 51: knit.
Row 52: k5; p28; k5.
Row 53: knit.
Row 54: k5; p28; k5.
Row 55: knit.
Row 56: k5; p28; k5.
Row 57: knit.
Row 58: k5; p8; k12; p8; k5.
Row 59: knit.
Row 60: k6; p5; k16; p5; k6.
Row 61: knit.
Row 62: knit.
Row 63: knit 13 stitches.; bind off next 12 stitches knitwise; knit remaining stitches. You should have 13 stitches on each side. Place first 13 stitches on a holder and work on remaining 13 stitches in garter stitch as follows:
Shoulder shaping:
Knit one row even.
(Right side) Dec. 1 st. at neck edge every other row 2 times. (11 sts.)
Knit one row even.
Dec. 1 st. at shoulder edge every other row until 5 sts. remain.
Knit one row even.
(Right side) Dec. 1 st. at neck edge and 1 st. at shoulder edge. 3 sts.
Knit one row even.
I-cord:
Slip these 3 sts. to a dpn and work an I-cord for approximately 12 inches. Fasten off and run end down through middle of I-cord.
Join yarn to neck edge and work remaining side to correspond to other side.
Something's Fishy Bib
Needles: Size 6
Gauge: 4.5 sts. per inch, not critical
When you reach the I-cords on the bib, it is helpful, but not necessary, to drop down a needle size to make the cords slightly smaller.
Directions:
Cast on 13 stitches.
Row 1: Knit
Row 2: Cast on 3 stitches, k 13. (16 sts.)
Row 3: Cast on 3 stitches; k 16. (19 sts.)
Row 4: Cast on 3 stitches; k 19; (22 sts.)
Row 5: Cast on 3 stitches; k 22. (25 sts.)
Row 6: Cast on 3 stitches; k 25. (28 sts.)
Row 7: Cast on 3 stitches; k 28. (31 sts.)
Row 8: Cast on 2 stitches; k5; p3; k3; p5; k3; p5; k3; p1; k5. (33 sts.)
Row 9: Cast on 2 stitches; k9; p1; k7; p1; k7; p1; k9. (35 sts.)
Row 10: Cast on 2 stitches; k5; p1; (k3, p5) 3 times end k7. (37 sts.)
Row 11: Cast on 2 stitches; k9; (p1; k3) 5 times; end p1; k9. (39 sts.)
Row 12: k4; p6; (k1, p1, k1; p5) 2 times; k1; p1 k1; p6; k4.
Row 13: k11; p1; k7; p1; k7; p1; k11.
Row 14: k3; p3; (k3, p5) 3 times; k3; p3; k3.
Row 15: k5; (p1; k3) 7 times; end p1; k5.
Row 16: k3; p1; k1; p5; (k1, p1, k1; p5) 3 times; k1; p1; k3.
Row 17: k3; (p1, k7) 4 times; end p1; k3.
Row 18: k3; p3; k1; p25; k1; p3; k3.
Row 19: k5; p1; k27; p1; k5.
Row 20: k3; p1; k1; p29; k1; p1; k3.
Row 21: k3; p1; k24; p1; k6; p1; k3.
Row 22: k3; p3; k1; p3; k2; p2; k2; p16; k1; p3; k3.
Row 23: k5; p1; k16; p2; k2; p3; k4; p1; k5.
Row 24: k3; p1; k1; p5; k8; p16; k1; p1; k3.
Row 25: k3; p1; k16; p8; k7; p1; k3.
Row 26: k3; p3; k1; p5; k8; p12; k1; p3; k3.
Row 27: k5; p1; k13; p9; k5; p1; k5.
Row 28: k3; p1; k1; p5; k9; p15; k1; p1; k3.
Row 29: k3; p1; k14; p1; k2; p4; k1; p3; k6; p1; k3.
Row 30: k3; p3; k1; p3; k2; p2; k3; p15; k1; p3; k3.
Row 31: k5; p1; k12; p1; k4; p3; k2; p1; k4; p1; k5.
Row 32: k3; p1; k1; p29; k1; p1; k3.
Row 33: k3; p1; k15; p1; k15; p1; k3.
Row 34: k3; p3; k1; p16; k2; p3; k1; p3; k1; p3; k3.
Row 35: k5; p1; k4; p2; k3; p2; k16; p1; k5.
Row 36: k3; p1; k1; p16; k8; p5; k1; p1; k3.
Row 37: k3; p1; k6; p9; k16; p1; k3.
Row 38: k3; p3; k1; p12; k9; p4; k1; p3; k3.
Row 39: k5; p1; k6; p8; k1; p1; k11; p1; k5.
Row 40: k3; p1; k1; p15; k8; p6; k1; p1; k3.
Row 41: k3; p1; k6; p3; k1; p4; k3; p1; k13; p1; k3.
Row 42: k3; p3; k1; p15; k3; p2; k2; p3; k1; p3; k3.
Row 43: k5; p1; k4; p1; k2; p3; k4; p1; k12; p1; k5.
Row 44: k3; p1; k1; p29; k1; p1; k3.
Row 45: k3; p1; k23; p1; k7; p1; k3.
Row 46: k3; p3; k1; p4; k2; p2; k2; p15; k1; p3; k3.
Row 47: k5; p1; k15; p2; k2; p3; k5; p1; k5.
Row 48: k3; p1; k1; p6; k8; p15; k1; p1; k3.
Row 49: k3; p1; k15; p8; k8; p1; k3
Row 50: k3; p3; k1; p6; k8; p11; k1; p3; k3.
Row 51: k5; p1; k10; p1; k1; p9; k6; p1; k5.
Row 52: k3; p1; k1; p6; k9; p14; k1; p1; k3.
Row 53: k3; p1; k12; p1; k3; p4; k1; p3; k7; p1; k3.
Row 54: k3; p3; k1; p4; k2; p2; k3; p14; k1; p3; k3.
Row 55: k5; p1; k11; p1; k4; p3; k2; p1; k5; p1; k5.
Row 56: k3; p1; k1; p29; k1; p1; k3.
Row 57: k3; p1; k31; p1; k3.
Row 58: k3; p3; k3; (p5 k3) 3 times end p3; k3.
Row 59: k5; (p1, k3) 6 times; end p1; k5.
Row 60: k3; p1; k1; p5; (k1, p1, k1, p5) 3 times; end k1; p1; k3.
Row 61: k3; (p1, k7) 4 times; end p1; k3.
Row 62: k3; p3; across row, end k3.
Row 63: k5; (p1, k3) across row, end p1; k5.
Row 64: k3; p1; k1; p1; k3; (p1, k1, p1, k1, p1 k3) 3 times end p1; k1; p1; k3.
Row 65: k3; (p1, k7) 4 times; end p1; k3.
Row 66: Knit.
Row 67: Knit.
Row 68: Knit.
Shoulder shaping:
Knit 13 sts.; bind off next 13 sts. knitwise; knit remaining 13 sts. You should have 13 sts. on each side. Place first 13 stitches on a holder and work on remaining 13 sts. in garter stitch as follows:
Knit one row even.
(Right side) Dec. 1 st. at neck edge every other row 2 times. (11 sts.)
Work one row even.
Dec. 1 st. at shoulder edge every other row until 5 sts. remain.
Knit one row even.
(Right side) Dec. 1 st. at neck edge and 1 st. at shoulder edge. 3 sts.
Knit one row even.
I-cord:
Slip these 3 sts. to a dpn and work an I-cord for approximately 12 inches. Fasten off and run end down through middle of I-cord.
Join yarn to neck edge and work remaining side to correspond to other side.
Materials: One skein of worsted weight cotton such as Sugar and Cream or Peaches & Crème if you are using the bib for meals. If, on the other hand, you want to use it as a “drool” bib, I would recommend using a superwash wool. The cotton has a tendancy to absorb the moisture, whereas the superwash wool will wick the moisture and keep baby nice and dry!
Needles: Size 6
Gauge: 4.5 sts. per inch, not critical
Note: The edges of the bib are worked in a garter stitch border over the first and last five stitches (knit every row). You might find it helpful to insert a marker after the first five stitches and before the last five stitches.
When you reach the I-cords on the bib, it is helpful, but not necessary, to drop down a needle size to make the cords slightly smaller.
Directions:
Cast on 12 sts.
Row 1: k1, p1, across row.
Row 2: Cast on 3 sts., knit across row. (15 sts.)
Row 3: Cast on 3 sts., knit across row (18 sts.)
Row 4: Cast on 3 sts., knit, across row (21 sts.)
Row 5: Cast on 3 sts., knit, across row (24 sts.)
Row 6: Cast on 3 sts., knit, across row (27 sts.)
Row 7: Cast on 3 sts., knit, across row (30 sts.)
Row 8: Cast on 2 sts., knit, across row (32 sts.)
Row 9: Cast on 2 sts., knit, across row (34 sts.)
Row 10: Cast on 2 sts., knit, across row (36 sts.)
Row 11: Cast on 2 sts., knit, across row (38 sts.)
Row 12: k13; p12; k13.
Row 13: knit
Row 14: k11, p16; k11.
Row 15: knit.
Row 16: k9; p20; k9.
Row 17: knit
Row 18: k7; p24; k7.
Row 19: knit
Row 20: k5; p28; k5.
(Note: From this point on, keep the first and last five stitches in the established garter stitch for the border. You might find it helpful to insert a marker after the first five stitches and before the last five stitches.)
Row 21: knit.
Row 22: k5; p28; k5.
Row 23: knit.
Row 24: k5; p28; k5.
Row 25: k15; p8; k15.
Row 26: k5; p8, k12, p8; k5.
Row 27: k11; p4; k3; p2; k3; p4; k11.
Row 28: k5; p5; k3; p5; k2; p5; k3; p5; k5.
Row 29: k10; p2; k6; p2; k6; p2; k10.
Row 30: k5; p4; k3; p6; k2; p6; k3; p4; k5.
Row 31: k9; p4; k5; p2; k5; p4; k9.
Row 32: k5; p3; k2; p1; k3; p4; k2; p4; k3; p1; k2; p3; k5.
Row 33: k8; p2; k2; p3; k3; p2; k3; p3; k2; p2; k8.
Row 34: k5; p3; k2; p3; k3; p2; k2; p2; k3; p3; k2; p3; k5.
Row 35: k8; p2; k4; p3; k1; p2; k1; p3; k4; p2; k8.
Row 36: k5; p3, k2; p5; k8; p5; k2; p3, k5.
Row 37: k8; p2; k6; p6; k6; p2; k8.
Row 38: k5; p3; k2; p7; k4; p7; k2; p3; k5.
Row 39: k8; p2; k8; p2; k8; p2; k8.
Row 40: k5; p3; k2; p8; k2; p8; k2; p3; k5.
Row 41: k8; p2; k8; p2; k8; p2; k8.
Row 42: k5; p4; k2; p7; k2; p7; k2; p4; k5.
Row 43: k9; p3; k6; p2; k6; p3; k9.
Row 44: k5; p5; k2; p6; k2; p6; k2; p5; k5.
Row 45: k10; p3; k5; p2; k5; p3; k10.
Row 46: k5; p6; k4; p3; k2; p3; k4; p6; k5.
Row 47: k13; p12; k13.
Row 48: k5; p10; k8; p10; k5.
Row 49: knit.
Row 50: k5; p28; k5.
Row 51: knit.
Row 52: k5; p28; k5.
Row 53: knit.
Row 54: k5; p28; k5.
Row 55: knit.
Row 56: k5; p28; k5.
Row 57: knit.
Row 58: k5; p8; k12; p8; k5.
Row 59: knit.
Row 60: k6; p5; k16; p5; k6.
Row 61: knit.
Row 62: knit.
Row 63: knit 13 stitches.; bind off next 12 stitches knitwise; knit remaining stitches. You should have 13 stitches on each side. Place first 13 stitches on a holder and work on remaining 13 stitches in garter stitch as follows:
Shoulder shaping:
Knit one row even.
(Right side) Dec. 1 st. at neck edge every other row 2 times. (11 sts.)
Knit one row even.
Dec. 1 st. at shoulder edge every other row until 5 sts. remain.
Knit one row even.
(Right side) Dec. 1 st. at neck edge and 1 st. at shoulder edge. 3 sts.
Knit one row even.
I-cord:
Slip these 3 sts. to a dpn and work an I-cord for approximately 12 inches. Fasten off and run end down through middle of I-cord.
Join yarn to neck edge and work remaining side to correspond to other side.
Something's Fishy Bib
Copyright 2008 by Elaine Fitzpatrick. Permission is granted to reproduce this pattern in any medium, as long as it is distributed for free and this copyright notice remains intact. Permission is also granted to produce items from this pattern for sale.
Materials: One skein of worsted weight cotton such as Sugar and Cream or Peaches & Crème if you are using the bib for meals. If, on the other hand, you want to use it as a “drool” bib, I would recommend using a superwash wool. The cotton has a tendancy to absorb the moisture, whereas the superwash wool will wick the moisture and keep baby nice and dry!Needles: Size 6
Gauge: 4.5 sts. per inch, not critical
When you reach the I-cords on the bib, it is helpful, but not necessary, to drop down a needle size to make the cords slightly smaller.
Directions:
Cast on 13 stitches.
Row 1: Knit
Row 2: Cast on 3 stitches, k 13. (16 sts.)
Row 3: Cast on 3 stitches; k 16. (19 sts.)
Row 4: Cast on 3 stitches; k 19; (22 sts.)
Row 5: Cast on 3 stitches; k 22. (25 sts.)
Row 6: Cast on 3 stitches; k 25. (28 sts.)
Row 7: Cast on 3 stitches; k 28. (31 sts.)
Row 8: Cast on 2 stitches; k5; p3; k3; p5; k3; p5; k3; p1; k5. (33 sts.)
Row 9: Cast on 2 stitches; k9; p1; k7; p1; k7; p1; k9. (35 sts.)
Row 10: Cast on 2 stitches; k5; p1; (k3, p5) 3 times end k7. (37 sts.)
Row 11: Cast on 2 stitches; k9; (p1; k3) 5 times; end p1; k9. (39 sts.)
Row 12: k4; p6; (k1, p1, k1; p5) 2 times; k1; p1 k1; p6; k4.
Row 13: k11; p1; k7; p1; k7; p1; k11.
Row 14: k3; p3; (k3, p5) 3 times; k3; p3; k3.
Row 15: k5; (p1; k3) 7 times; end p1; k5.
Row 16: k3; p1; k1; p5; (k1, p1, k1; p5) 3 times; k1; p1; k3.
Row 17: k3; (p1, k7) 4 times; end p1; k3.
Row 18: k3; p3; k1; p25; k1; p3; k3.
Row 19: k5; p1; k27; p1; k5.
Row 20: k3; p1; k1; p29; k1; p1; k3.
Row 21: k3; p1; k24; p1; k6; p1; k3.
Row 22: k3; p3; k1; p3; k2; p2; k2; p16; k1; p3; k3.
Row 23: k5; p1; k16; p2; k2; p3; k4; p1; k5.
Row 24: k3; p1; k1; p5; k8; p16; k1; p1; k3.
Row 25: k3; p1; k16; p8; k7; p1; k3.
Row 26: k3; p3; k1; p5; k8; p12; k1; p3; k3.
Row 27: k5; p1; k13; p9; k5; p1; k5.
Row 28: k3; p1; k1; p5; k9; p15; k1; p1; k3.
Row 29: k3; p1; k14; p1; k2; p4; k1; p3; k6; p1; k3.
Row 30: k3; p3; k1; p3; k2; p2; k3; p15; k1; p3; k3.
Row 31: k5; p1; k12; p1; k4; p3; k2; p1; k4; p1; k5.
Row 32: k3; p1; k1; p29; k1; p1; k3.
Row 33: k3; p1; k15; p1; k15; p1; k3.
Row 34: k3; p3; k1; p16; k2; p3; k1; p3; k1; p3; k3.
Row 35: k5; p1; k4; p2; k3; p2; k16; p1; k5.
Row 36: k3; p1; k1; p16; k8; p5; k1; p1; k3.
Row 37: k3; p1; k6; p9; k16; p1; k3.
Row 38: k3; p3; k1; p12; k9; p4; k1; p3; k3.
Row 39: k5; p1; k6; p8; k1; p1; k11; p1; k5.
Row 40: k3; p1; k1; p15; k8; p6; k1; p1; k3.
Row 41: k3; p1; k6; p3; k1; p4; k3; p1; k13; p1; k3.
Row 42: k3; p3; k1; p15; k3; p2; k2; p3; k1; p3; k3.
Row 43: k5; p1; k4; p1; k2; p3; k4; p1; k12; p1; k5.
Row 44: k3; p1; k1; p29; k1; p1; k3.
Row 45: k3; p1; k23; p1; k7; p1; k3.
Row 46: k3; p3; k1; p4; k2; p2; k2; p15; k1; p3; k3.
Row 47: k5; p1; k15; p2; k2; p3; k5; p1; k5.
Row 48: k3; p1; k1; p6; k8; p15; k1; p1; k3.
Row 49: k3; p1; k15; p8; k8; p1; k3
Row 50: k3; p3; k1; p6; k8; p11; k1; p3; k3.
Row 51: k5; p1; k10; p1; k1; p9; k6; p1; k5.
Row 52: k3; p1; k1; p6; k9; p14; k1; p1; k3.
Row 53: k3; p1; k12; p1; k3; p4; k1; p3; k7; p1; k3.
Row 54: k3; p3; k1; p4; k2; p2; k3; p14; k1; p3; k3.
Row 55: k5; p1; k11; p1; k4; p3; k2; p1; k5; p1; k5.
Row 56: k3; p1; k1; p29; k1; p1; k3.
Row 57: k3; p1; k31; p1; k3.
Row 58: k3; p3; k3; (p5 k3) 3 times end p3; k3.
Row 59: k5; (p1, k3) 6 times; end p1; k5.
Row 60: k3; p1; k1; p5; (k1, p1, k1, p5) 3 times; end k1; p1; k3.
Row 61: k3; (p1, k7) 4 times; end p1; k3.
Row 62: k3; p3; across row, end k3.
Row 63: k5; (p1, k3) across row, end p1; k5.
Row 64: k3; p1; k1; p1; k3; (p1, k1, p1, k1, p1 k3) 3 times end p1; k1; p1; k3.
Row 65: k3; (p1, k7) 4 times; end p1; k3.
Row 66: Knit.
Row 67: Knit.
Row 68: Knit.
Shoulder shaping:
Knit 13 sts.; bind off next 13 sts. knitwise; knit remaining 13 sts. You should have 13 sts. on each side. Place first 13 stitches on a holder and work on remaining 13 sts. in garter stitch as follows:
Knit one row even.
(Right side) Dec. 1 st. at neck edge every other row 2 times. (11 sts.)
Work one row even.
Dec. 1 st. at shoulder edge every other row until 5 sts. remain.
Knit one row even.
(Right side) Dec. 1 st. at neck edge and 1 st. at shoulder edge. 3 sts.
Knit one row even.
I-cord:
Slip these 3 sts. to a dpn and work an I-cord for approximately 12 inches. Fasten off and run end down through middle of I-cord.
Join yarn to neck edge and work remaining side to correspond to other side.
I love Elaine's bibs, I made two for my nephew, i love the way the seed stitch around the outside looks
ReplyDeleteKim x